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VQ35 Oil Consumption
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I bought an ’03 Pathfinder recently with the VQ35 engine. It has 87,000 miles on it. To make sure its prepared for a life with me, I've been performing all the periodic maintenance. I don't want to assume that it has been treated kindly. I began reading the following forums as part of this exercise.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=37
http://www.npora.ipbhost.com
The first thing that stunned me was the reports of power valve screws being ingested and causing damage. While reading that material, I came across posts talking about high oil consumption. The truck I bought was low on oil when I inspected it. Now I began to wonder if this might be a problem with my vehicle. Hmmm, high quality import?? Now I understand that lots of folks are having oil consumptions problem with the VQ35, regardless of vehicle.
Important Note: I have no idea what the oil consumption was on this vehicle before I bought it. The previous owner said it didn't use oil. Considering it was 1 quart low the day I bought it, it DID use oil. I just don't know how much or the reason for it.
I tore into the engine today to check the power valves. Fortunately they were all present and accounted for. They were tight too!! However, I noticed what I believed to be an unusual amount of oil film in the intake manifold plenums. There was an actual puddle of oil in the left rear area of the upper plenum. The area in the upper plenum above where the PCV port is located was amber from oil spraying up. A lot of oil was definitely getting drawn into the PCV circuit. Why????
In researching this, I came across this thread.
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/pathfinder/1117-2002-pathfinder-oil-consumption.html
Andre's explanation gave me hope, "Could it be this easy?!".
After pulling both the upper and lower plenums, I removed the valve cover. I was pleasantly surprised to see a clean valve train and cams in good shape. There was no sludge. At least there were no signs of oil starvation or infrequent oil changes here.
So, the prescription is to replace the right-hand valve cover, Sounds easy enough. Being the curious guy that I am, I was not satisfied with just fixing the problem. I had to know why oil was getting trapped in the baffles. Inquiring minds need to know.
After several hours of studying this today and making a valiant effort to clean my cover, I think I solved the puzzle. In retrospect, you don't want to do what I did. Just go buy a new cover. However, this little story will explain why replacement is necessary. If you don't agree with my conclusion, let me know. My E-mail addreess is at the end.
I think the baffles exist for one purpose, to separate the oil mist from the blow-by gases before they are sucked out the PCV valve and into the intake tract. The baffles need a drain so that the accumulated oil goes back into the engine. There is an oil drain port on the low side of the cover. I’ve pointed it out in figure 1. The opening in this drain is very small and it stands to reason that it would clog. I’m not sure why Nissan engineers designed it this way, but there must be a reason. Making the hole larger might keep it from clogging again, but it also might introduce other problems.
Figure 1
This drain gets clogged with junk that settles out of the oil mist. I’ve been trying for hours to get all the dirt/carbon bits out. I will eventually get most out, but what a job!!
I’ve been using mineral spirits (paint thinner) and then filtered out the particulates before reuse. Figure 2 shows my filtering setup, pretty crude but it works. Figure 3 shows the stuff that’s coming out. I’ve used many coffee filters tonight. When you start, the cleaner will be quite dirty and the filters will clog quickly. It's important to filter your cleaner. If you don’t filter out the suspended particles, you’ll never know when you cover is clean.
Figure 2
Figure 3
I put the cover in a large shallow container; I use cat litter pans for such things.
I found that the following steps gave me the best results.
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Put on nitrile gloves to protect your hands.
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Remove the PCV valve.
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Hold the cover horizontal, bottom side up, with the drain nearest you. The PCV port will be on the right. Plug the PCV hole with your right index finger.
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Holding the cover with your right hand, pour the cleaner into the two ports shown in figure 4 until they are full. then slosh it around for awhile. Then invert the cover and drain. Keep repeating this process. When you run out of mineral spirits, filter the dirty stuff and start again. Eventually the drain port will begin to flow. If you hold it at an angle, like it sits on the engine, you'll find that the drain will dump the mineral spirits for a few seconds after all the other openings have drained. This is what made me realize that it was a drain for the baffles. When you no longer get crud coming out, then it’s probably OK to reinstall. I lost count how many times I filled, agitated, and drained the cover. Eventually particulates stop appearing in the cleaner and the filter doesn't clog as quickly. You'll know when this happens.
Figure 4
There was a lot of junk in the baffles. Even after cleaning, the recesses inside the cover are covered with a film of sludge that will not come off except by scrubbing. You have to assume if the visible parts are coated with that stuff, so are the baffles. The mineral spirits flow nicely out the drain port now and it comes out clean.
Post write-up thought: After thinking about this whole thing, I suspect that oil loss occurs first due to the baffle drain being clogged. If people never check their oil, then damage results and then the oil loss is due to both the baffles and the damage. This is just a guess though. You should start a lifetime habit of checking your oil at every other fill-up.
In addition, I think frequent oil changes will prevent the baffle drain from getting clogged. The drain clogs due to solids being separated from the oil mist. If your oil is changed every 3000 miles, there will be a smaller amount of suspended solids in the oil and there won't be as much to clog the drain. Oil that is changed every 5000 miles will have a larger concentration of suspended solids and they might clog that drain more quickly.
Summary:
- When this happens again, and it will, I will not spend the time cleaning it. I’ll just buy a new one. It’s way too much trouble. I did it this time just to figure out why the cover needed replacement.
- Nissan does not have an upgraded cover to prevent this from happening again. I called my parts department and they said it’s the original part number and it has not been superseded. The new cover comes with a PCV valve and the spark plug seals. You’ll need to order a new valve cover seal.
- If you have high oil consumption and your vehicle is otherwise solid and has been maintained properly and you don’t want to do this yourself, take it to the dealer and ask that they install a new right hand valve cover. You might also consider having them check your power valves too. If replacing the cover does not solve your problem, then there are other reasons for the oil loss and you might want to consider hiring someone to do a leak down test on the engine. If the engine runs well otherwise, it might be easier to just check your oil often and add when needed. NOTE: Excessive oil consumption may lead to early catalytic coverter failure, which may cause your vehicle to fail emissions testing. The cost of replacing cats will exceed the cost of replacing your valve cover.
- I’m going to do a leak down test to determine the condition of the engine and go here to see the outcome of that. I found a nice how-to for making your own leak down instrument. Getting parts for it tomorrow. I'm going to mod it a bit. Wikipedia had a good techincal document on leak down testers. I'm going to add a second gauge and I am doing the orifice a little different. I'll do a page on the one I build. If you're interested, check my car maintenance page from time-to-time.
- Before you buy a used vehicle with a VQ35 engine, you should have an engine leak down test done by a mechanic you trust. You should also insist on an emissions test. If the cat has failed, that might indicate an oil consumption problem. If you are 100% positive that the car has been properly cared for and the person CHECKED his/her oil regularly, you might be able to get away without doing the test. In any event, if the car/truck you are considering has more that 50,000 miles, you should plan on replacing the valve cover right away. I'm not sure at what point the drain gets clogged and oil consumption goes up, but it will happen quite suddenly I THINK. Check your oil often.
- If you want to do the valve cover yourself, these tips might help you.
- The pesky right rear bracket that is attached to the lower plenum needs
special treatment.
Go now and buy gear wrenches, trust me. If you don't want an entire
set, get a 12 mm one. My set is a combo, part number 9620 with 15 degree
offset.
- You'll need to remove the lower bolt on the right rear bracket in order to get
the valve cover off. BEFORE you loosen that lower bolt, mark its position
with a permanent marker. If you don't, you'll be upset that you didn't
listen to me. The top two bolts holes of that bracket need to align with
the holes in the lower plenum. If the bracket isn't precisely aligned then
you'll need to loosen and then tighten that lower bolt after you've
installed the lower plenum. This is not fun and it can only be done with an
offset gear wrench and was very difficult even with that.
- When you get to the point where the intake plenums and manifold openings are exposed, be VERY careful you don't drop something in. Plug them with something to ensure nothing bad happens. I used wadded paper towels. When you get the lower plenum off, plug the 6 openings with toweling and then cut a strip of cardboard to put over the manifold. Use a philips screwdriver to punch holes where the studs are, this will hold the cardboard in place.
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Update 12/10/2009 - My Pathy now has 101,596 miles. Last oil change was on 10/17/09 and the mileage was 99,912.. Oil was checked today and was 1 quart low. Total consumption on this oil lifecycle is 1 quart for 1684 miles. This is acceptable consumption.
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Update 3/7/2009 - My Pathy now has 91.973 miles. 4673 miles since oil change. Oil was checked today and was 1/2 quart low. I changed the oil. Total consumption on this oil lifecycle was 1.75 quarts, or 1 quart per 2500 miles. This is acceptable consumption.
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Update 2/14/2009 - My Pathy now has 90,600 miles. Oil was checked today and was 1/2 quart low. Topped it off. Mileage since last top off was 1896. Miles since oil change is 3300. Oil used 1.25 quarts. This is acceptable consumption.
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Update 12/26/2008 - My Pathy now has 88,704 miles. Oil checked and was 3/4 quart low. Topped off. Mileage since oil change is 1400. miles. Consumption is a little high, but still only 1.5 quarts per 2800 miles.
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10/2008 - After purchasing the truck, I changed the oil at 87,300 miles.
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